The Kingdom of Mysore:
Home of Traditional Masala Incense
The Kingdom of Mysore is justly famous for masala hand-rolled incense, which is free of the noxious smell of harsh woods and other additives. Masalas are made by blending solid all-natural ingredients into a paste, and then rolling them on a bamboo stick. Masalas do not contain liquid perfumes or synthetic chemicals. Although the Masala method has been imitated broadly, Mysore is still the home of the best variety of this incense, which is traditionally manufactured today as in ancient times.

Bamboo is split into very thin lengths of approximately nine inches. Punagu, a perfume base, and jigutu, a variety of gum, are mixed with other forest products, such as sandalwood, natural halmadi gum, and locally extracted scents like jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, rose, and many others. This resinous substance is then hand-rolled unto the bamboo sticks, which are allowed to dry and bundled in attractive packages of different sizes and varieties. These Masala sticks are lit today in most Mysore homes for morning and evening prayers, and on all auspicious occasions. Mysore is steeped in tradition, being at the epicenter of Indian history, culture, and timeless elegance. The City of mysore, once the capital of the former mysore State, is now the cultural and tourist center of the expanded Karnataka State.

Natural Beauty of Mysore
The subcontinent of India is divided by the Vindhya Mountains, which run from east to west, separating the fertile river valley of the Ganges from the Deccan Plateau that occupies much of the peninsula. The Vindhya Mountains also separate the north, where the predominant languages are Sanskrit-based, from the south and its Dravidian-based languages. The mountains rimming the Deccan plateau frame the South’s coastal plains. On these plains lie the best beaches in India. On the mountains themselves are the tea, coffee and spice lands. Beyond these mountains, in the wedge-shaped plateau, are great old cities supported by rich farmlands and a culture that has its roots in the Kumari Continent from where civilization spread across the world. The South is gracious, graceful, Old India.

Karnataka, the old mysore state, is an enchanting land abounding in scenic beauty and rich in flora and fauna. It is home to the pageantry of glorious traditions and the marvels of modern cyber-technology. Karnataka's manifold attractions include bird and wild game sanctuaries, impregnable forts, hill stations, beach resorts, world famous gardens, monolithic statues, impressive waterfalls, and magnificent temples.

There are many places of historic and religious importance. The great spiritual leaders of India, Shankara, Ramanuja, Madhva, Nimbarka, and Sri Caitanya Mahaprabhu preached extensively in this region. Great mathematicians like Bhaskaracarya, commentators like Sayana, poets like Purandaradasa and Kanakadasa, and great writers like Pampa, Harihara and Kumara Vyasa have all enriched the heritage of mysore. And Karnatic classical music is also justy famous.

The temples at Aihole, Badami and Pattadakal in Bijapur district have great significance for all lovers of art. The temples of Halebedu, Belur and Somanathapura are great architectural achievements, the likes of which are rarely seen in any part of the world. The profusion of artistic skill is bewildering in its range and exquisiteness. At Hampi, in the Bellary district, one can see Indian sculpture in all its richness and vitality.

The Muslims and Christians in ages past have made no mean contribution to the enrichment of art and architecture in mysore. The Gol Gumbaz and Ibrahim-Roza at Bijapur, the summer palace of Tippu Sultan at Srirangapatna, and the Khwaja Bandenawaz Darga at Gulbarga are some of the remarkable Muslim contributions. The churches at mysore, Manager, Bungler and Bijapur indicate the contribution of Christians to the great ensemble of mysore’s culture.

Grandeur and Glory
The city proper is the second largest in the modern State of Karnataka. It lies 130 kilometers from the State Capital, Bangalore. It is the erstwhile seat of government of the mysore maharajas, who ruled mysore state from this royal city. It is now the headquarters of mysore district with a population of approximately one million. The chief language of the people, as in the State of Karnataka, is Kannada.

Covering an area of more than 40 square kilometers, mysore is administered by the mysore city corporation. Situated 763 meters above sea level and surrounded by hill ranges from north to south, it is known as the Garden City and the City of Palaces. The famous Chamundi Hill, which is mythologically associated with the name of the city, is to its southeast.

The capital city of the Wodeyar dynasty, mysore, has always enchanted its admirers with its quaint charm, rich heritage, magnificent palaces, beautiful out gardens, imposing buildings, broad shady avenues and sacred temples. There's an old world charm about the city that leaves no one untouched.

The city of mysore is associated with a Puranic story found in the Devi Bhagavata. According to this story, mysore was ruled by the demon-king Mahishasura, a buffalo-headed monster. Hence, this place came to be known as Mahisha-pura, the city of the demon Mahisha (later contracted to Mahishur). Hearing the prayers of her supplicants to save them from the demon, Parvati, wife of Lord Siva, took birth as Chamundi and killed Mahisha. After killing the demon, Parvati established her residence atop the Chamundi Hills, where she is worshipped with reverence and devotion to this day.

History of mysore
The earliest historical mention of mysore or Mahishur is in the time of King Ashoka in 245 BC. On the conclusion of the third Buddhist convocation, Ashoka is said to have dispatched a monk to Mahishamandala for the purpose of spreading Buddhism. Some edicts of Ashoka have been found in the northern parts of the present Karnataka State. Similar reference is also found in the epic work, Mahabharata. According to this epic, King Yudhishtira is said to have sent an expedition and Sahadeva made an attack on Mahishmati.

Until the rise of the Gangas in 10th century we find very little or no evidence at all relating to mysore. The Ganga dynasty established its reign in the 2nd century and the Ganga kings ruled over the greater part of mysore until 1004. They established their capital in the 3rd century at Talakad, on the bank of the Kaveri river. One of their inscriptions has been traced in the Chamundi Hills. The inspection of 950 AD is the earliest inscription found in mysore.

After the Gangas, the Cholas rose to power and ruled for over a century. The Chalukyas followed them. In the 10th century, mysore was a part of the kingdom of the Chalukya Prince Narasingha. The Cholas built a few temples in mysore. The Hoysalas drove out the Cholas and Chalukyas from the mysore region in the 12th century. The Hoysalas, who were known for their famous temples, built or expanded the existing temples in mysore and on the Chamundi Hills. Their 11th and 12th century inscriptions are found in mysore.

The Wodeyars
The mysore yadu dynasty, known as the Wodeyars (Yadu-rayas), came to power in 1399 AD. They were feudatories to the Vijayanagar kings, who followed the Hoysalas. They also contributed to the development of temples in mysore. Bettada Chamaraja Wodeyar, the raja of mysore, rebuilt the small fort of mysore in 1584 AD. He made mysore his headquarters and called it 'Mahishura Nagara' or the city of Mahishur. Several inscriptions of the 17th century and later periods make reference to mysore as 'Mahishuru'.

Raja Wodeyar moved the capital of his kingdom from mysore to Srirangapatna in 1610 AD. The headquarters of Monk’s Herbal Incense in India is located in this historical city. After the fall of Srirangapatna and death of Tipu Sultan in 1799, mysore became the capital of the Wodeyars again. The transformation of mysore from a small town, confined to the limits of the Fort, to a modern township began at the period of Krishnaraja Wodeyar III. It was Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV who developed mysore into a handsome city with excellent planning. He brought fame to mysore as a city of wide roads, imposing buildings and airy parks.

Chivalry and Romance
The Yadu or Wodeyar dynasty ruled mysore from the 14th century onwards, for nearly six centuries. As one enters the Southern gate of the mysore palace, one can see a small temple dedicated to Kodi Bhyravesvara. This temple is of historical significance as it saw the emergence of the Wodeyar dynasty. In this temple, a dramatic turn of events took place in the year 1399 AD

As the story goes, two young men, Vijaya and Krishna of the Yadu dynasty hailing from Dwaraka in Gujarat came to mysore, after visiting Melkote on their pilgrimage. The two royal princes took shelter at the Kodi Bhyraveswara Temple, which was close to the Doddakere, from where people of the then small city of mysore fetched water for drinking and daily chores. At dawn, they heard some women discussing the distressed situation of the young Princess Devajammanni. The death of her father, Chamaraja, the local ruler, had landed her and her mother, the queen, in trouble.

Taking advantage of the situation, the neighboring Chief of Karugahalli, Maranayaka, began demanding the kingdom and the princess in marriage. Taking the help of a religious mendicant, the two chivalrous brothers came to the rescue of the distressed Maharani and the Princess. Mobilizing troops, they defeated the Karugahalli Chief and his men and saved the mysore royal family and their kingdom. A happy princess married the elder brother, Vijaya, and he became the first ruler of the Yadu dynasty. He assumed the name Yaduraya.

Thus the traditional founding of the Wodeyar dynasty took place in 1399 with Yaduraya. Yaduraya ruled from 1399 to 1423. Since then, 24 rulers have succeeded in the dynasty, the last being Jayachamaraja Wodeyar. It is during his period that India won freedom and later the monarchy was abolished. With that ended the reign of the mysore maharajas.

Raja Wodeyar (1578-1617) emerged as the first powerful ruler in the mysore royal family. Until then, mysore was a small feudatory kingdom under the Vijayanagar Kingdom. The mysore chieftains owed allegiance to the Vijayanagar kings and the Vijayanagar representative at Srirangapatna. Taking advantage of the fall of Vijayanagar in 1565 AD, Raja Wodeyar defeated the Vijayanagar representative in a battle at Kesare near mysore, shifted his capital from mysore to Srirangapatna in 1610 and ascended the famous throne. However, he continued the traditions of Vijayanagar and revived the famous Dasara festival, celebrating it for the first time in Srirangapatna with pomp and grandeur.

The next powerful ruler to ascend the throne of mysore was Ranadhira Kantirava Narasaraja Wodeyar (1638-1659). A courageous ruler, he successfully fought back the efforts of Bijapur Badsha to acquire Srirangapatna twice, fortified the Srirangapatna and mysore forts, and began minting coins with his seals. Dodda Devaraja Wodeyar (1659-1673), who ruled next, further expanded the kingdom by acquiring areas of Keladi Shivappa Naika and Palegars of Madurai and Thiruchinapalli.

Chikka Devaraja Wodeyar (1673-1704) was the next celebrated ruler. Besides further expanding the kingdom and strengthening the forts, he introduced modern administration in his vastly expanded kingdom. He appointed staff for specific jobs, fixed wages for different works, built several canals to provide water for irrigation, introduced weights and measures and a postal system, imposed taxes to improve revenue, constructed storehouses for produce, and set up 18 departments (Chavadis) in the administration. During his 31 years of reign, mysore saw the peak of its glory. Kannada literature flourished under him, the Maharaja himself making significant contributions.

During the reign of Krishnaraja Wodeyar II (1734-1766), Hyder Ali Khan and his celebrated son Tipu Sultan became the virtual rulers of mysore. They were in total command until 1799, when the British Army killed Tipu in the 4th mysore war in Srirangapatna. With the death of Tipu, the capital was moved back to mysore.

Five-year-old Prince Krishnaraja Wodeyar III was installed on the throne of mysore in 1799, and ruled until 1868. He revived the Dasara celebrations on a grand scale in mysore, and had the old mysore palace rebuilt. During his period, steps were taken for developing mysore into a modern city. New Agraharas and temples were built outside the palace fort. Kannada literature saw a new dimension. Krishnaraja was the longest-ruling Wodeyar. Ably assisted by two Diwans, Sir M. Visvesvaraya and Sir Mirza Ismail, mysore emerged as a modern city and State. After the King’s death in 1940, Jayachamaraja Wodeyar became the 25th and last ruler of the mysore royal family.

visiting mysore
The vibrant city of mysore is teeming with tourists and visitors. It is known the world over for its exotic sandalwood, fragrant Masala incense, and rich silks. Its grand and imposing palaces, majestic temples, and gardens leave an ever-lasting impression on the visitor. The following are some of the extraordinary sights awaiting the traveler.

mysore palace
The Maharaja's palace is one of the important sights in mysore. Built in Indo-Saracenic style with domes, turrets, arches and colonnades, the palace is a treasure house of exquisite carvings and works of art from all over the world. Intricately carved doors open on to luxuriously furnished rooms. The majestic Durbar Hall has an ornate ceiling and many sculpted pillars. The magnificent jewel-studded golden throne of the Wodeyars is displayed here during the Dasera festival. Illuminated on Sundays and public holidays, the palace presents a spectacle of breathtaking beauty.

Chamundi Hills
A well-known landmark, Chamundi Hill can be reached by a 13-km road or by climbing up the 1,000 steps laid out by the mysore maharaja in the 17th century. Halfway up along the stone steps is Nandi, Lord Shiva's Bull, a majestic 4.8-meter monolith. At the top is the 12th century temple of Chamundeshwari, the patron goddess of the Wodeyars. Close to the temple is the gigantic statue of the demon Mahishasura. The summit offers a panoramic view of mysore's lakes, parks and palaces.

Vrindavan Gardens
Located at the KR Sagar Dam [Kannambadi], Vrindavan Gardens is one of the best gardens in South India. Spread over an acre, Vrindavan Gardens has since the 1960s provided the backdrop for many Indian films. Special attractions include the 'Dancing Fountains'.

mysore zoo
The mysore zoo was established under royal patronage in the nineteenth century. Its fauna includes rare and exotic species that are housed in lush, green surroundings. The zoo is famous for breeding some very rare animals in captivity.

The Art Gallery
The Jaganmohan palace was converted into an art gallery in 1875 and exhibits paintings that date back to that period. The artists of that time used natural vegetable and mineral dyes. The famous traditional mysore 'gold leaf ' paintings are also exhibited in the gallery, as are oil paintings of contemporary artists like Raja Ravi Varma.

Tipu's Daria Daulat Bagh
Tipu's summer palace, built in 1784,is located here. Made of teak, this Indo-Saracenic structure has ornate and beautiful frescos. It is now a museum and speaks eloquently of Tipu's valor and his losing battle against the British.

Tipu Sultan’s Fort
It is here that Tipu charged at the British soldiers with his legendary sword. An obelisk in the fort marks the place where he fell, betrayed by his own men. The fort holds within it a mosque and the Ranganathaswamy Temple. Outside the fort is the Gumbaz, Tipu's tomb with splendid ebony doors inlaid with ivory.

Himvad Gopalaswamy Hills
This is a popular hill resort and a trekker's delight as well. It is situated in the verdant western ghats of mysore district. The temple here is dedicated to Lord Hoysala.

Melkote
Situated 50 kms. north of mysore, Melkote is a sacred pilgrim center, known for its Vairamundi festival in March-April. More than one hundred thousand pilgrims congregate here for the festival. Melkote is also famous for its handlooms. Ramanucharya, the Shri-vaishnava saint-philosopher, took shelter here from his persecutors.

Talakad
48 Kms from mysore, It is situated on the banks of the river Kaveri and is completely buried beneath sand dunes. Only the Dravidian style Vaidyeshwara temple is visible above the ground. Its temples are opened for ceremonial worship on special occasions, once in twelve years.

Shivsamudra
85 Kms east of mysore, where the river Kaveri cascades down in two picturesque waterfalls, is Shivsamudra. Falling down from a height of 75 m into a deep gorge, these falls are best during the monsoons.

Nagarhole National Park
93 kms. from mysore, in the forest of Nagarhole, is a National Park. Abounding in a rich variety of wildlife, one can find elephants, antelopes and even leopards here. Nagarhole is well know as a well maintained tiger preserve. Tiger tours on elephant back can be arranged in nearby areas.

Kabini River Lodge
Situated 80 kms. from mysore in the Karapur forests is the old hunting lodge of the Maharajas and Viceroys. The lodge on the banks of the river Kabini arranges jeep rides into the jungle and coracle rides on the Kabini for bird watching. A naturalist guide helps you identify the many varieties of birds and wild beasts.

B.R. Hills
This picturesque hill range, at a height of 5091 ft., is 120 kms. from mysore and is home to a rich variety of flora and fauna. The temple on the hill, dedicated to Biligiri Rangaswamy attracts devotees round the year.

If you would like to visit our mysore, please contact our friends at the Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation http://kstdc.nic.in/